ChileSkiing in the land of volcanoes

There are places in the world where skiing is more than just a sport, it's a deep sensory experience, a constant dialogue between nature and the Earth's power. To live and ski in such an environment is to embrace duality: the sublime and the wild, the predictable and the unpredictable, the beautiful and the dangerous. Here, the land is not static. It moves, breathes, speaks.

At the heart of the Pacific Ring of Fire, hundreds of volcanoes rise from the fertile valleys of the Andes Mountains. Some lie dormant, while others smoke and explode, making this territory a unique experience of connection with the Earth’s core. Reading ancient and recent eruptions, where the traces of old lava flows are hidden beneath the snow of winter and spring gives backcountry skiing an entirely different dimension.

One of the most remarkable features of this region is the possibility of climbing a volcano in a single day and skiing down from the crater. In this land of contrasts, it’s possible to experience a full day of ski touring that begins at dawn among frozen trees and ends with a perfect descent from the peak. The key lies in planning, terrain knowledge, and the willingness to rise early.

With your backpack prepared the night before, the first steps are silent. A headlamp cuts through the darkness of the forest as skins crunch over the still-frozen snow. The sounds are minimal: skis gliding, your breath, the occasional night bird.

As you emerge from the tree line, the volcano’s cone is fully revealed. A broad slope, sometimes gentle, sometimes technical stretches up to the crater. As you gain altitude, the snow changes, the wind shifts. Dawn shadows dance across the slope. This is where the real challenge begins: adapting to constantly changing snow conditions switching between heavy “Araucanian powder” ice, crust, and more.

With tired muscles and your heart still at the top, you return to the forest. The crunch of snow under your boots reminds you that it was all real.

Skiing on volcanic terrain demands constant attention. Physical fitness alone is not enough. These mountains change every day.

Unpredictable snow conditions: Direct solar radiation on exposed slopes, geothermal activity beneath the surface, constant wind, and slope orientation can mean encountering four types of snow in a single descent. Volcanoes in this region are exposed to extreme weather conditions. These isolated mountains take everything head on.

Volcanic monitoring: In active zones, it’s essential to check seismic activity reports. Local volcanology observatories report the alert level, which is crucial before planning any ascent. Recently, in December 2024, access to Villarrica´s volcano summit was reopened after being closed for two years due to volcanic activity.

Gear choice: Lightweight gear is critical since the Andes lack extensive mountain infrastructure. Ski lifts and refuges are scarce. You carry everything yourself so your gear matters. Personally, I use Tecton 13 or Xenic bindings depending on the day’s “mission” both excellent for these kinds of environments.

Safety: While avalanche risk can be sometimes lower in some zones, local slides, cornices, and snow variation can be deceptive. ALWAYS carry the proper safety gear: avalanche transceiver, shovel, probe, radio, and helmet.